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by Des Gorra

(Important Note: The pictures accompanying this article are important aids to understanding the text, but putting the full size images into the article would make the page very slow to load, so small versions have been created for this page. Each small picture is a clickable link to the full size picture.)



How did a holiday retreat on an island just off the west coast of Scotland play a part in the Cold War? To put everyone's mind at rest, the involvement was NOT strategic and had absolutely nothing to do with weapons or military installations, nuclear or otherwise. In the event of a nuclear conflict, its role would have been to facilitate the observation and reporting of events as they developed.

The following article only touches on each of the subjects it covers, avoids the really technical bits, and concludes with a list of links for those interested in further details.

Additional photographs can be found in the Photo Gallery.

Introduction - Forewarned is Forearmed

The history of the Observer Corps begins in 1914 with the First World War, and the need to keep watch for the incursion of enemy aircraft. Reporting on aircraft sightings from any suitable facility (police stations, aerodromes, searchlight batteries, watch stations) the early observers were to build a telephone network that connected their facilities together and reduce the time taken to make reports. The network of volunteers grew steadily, but with the coming of peace, and the Armistice of World War I, the organisation all but disappeared.

The formal story began in 1925 when the first Observer Corps group was formed, tasked with the primary role of identifying and reporting aircraft movements in an organised manner. With the advent of WWII, the organisation was mobilised on August 24, 1939 and immediately transferred from Police to RAF control. Throughout WWII the observers fulfilled their duties from a network of observation posts located around the country, crewed continuously by volunteers. Many posts were solidly constructed from either bricks or concrete blocks, or assembled from prefabricated concrete panels. Known as Orlits, these structures were designated either Orlit A or Orlit B, dependant on whether they were built on the ground or raised above it. Other posts were extremely basic, consisting of little more than a cleared area, perhaps with the added protection of a pile of sandbags. Posts reported to their regional headquarters using ordinary telephones, connected by overland lines run to them for that purpose.

Pictured above is an Orlit A raised concrete block post, photographed at New Deer in Grampian in August 2002. The post entrance is located on the unseen side, and the roof (missing) was removable to allow the observers a clear view of the sky. As may be seen from the houses in the background and the recently laid road and kerbstones, the surrounding area was undergoing development when the picture was taken. Two weeks later, this post was reported to have been demolished.

The Chain Home System protected Britain's coastline by using RADAR to give advance warning of approaching enemy aircraft, but once those aircraft crossed the coast, they were no longer visible to the system. As the only means of tracking enemy aircraft once they had crossed the British coastline, the Observer Corps was recognised in 1941 as the Royal Observer Corps by King George VI, a rare distinction for a volunteer organisation. Without the Corps' systematic reports, the effectiveness of air-raid warnings and fighter interception would have been much reduced. The services of the Corps were also called upon during the D-Day landings in 1944, when almost 800 observers served aboard merchant ships as volunteer aircraft identifiers.

The end of World War II saw the stand down of the ROC in 1945, but by 1947 the development of the Cold War was to see the ROC re-form and return to its primary role of aircraft tracking. By 1955 the threat of nuclear conflict had grown further, and the Government tasked the ROC with the monitoring and reporting of nuclear attacks on the British Isles, together with the resultant fallout. To achieve this, 1,559 underground monitoring posts were installed throughout the county, of which some 336 were located in Scotland. While many of these were built at or near the site of an original aircraft monitoring post, this was not always the case as the land had to be able to accommodate the construction of the new post below ground, requiring a depth of some 15 ft. More detailed descriptions of a post, illustrated by further diagrams can be found in the history of the ROC, which expands on the layout diagram reproduced above. Alternatively, there is also a chronological history of the ROC available, which also includes details of the arrival of Rudolph Hess in Scotland, as tracked by ROC observers on Saturday May 10, 1941.

Initially, these new underground posts were also connected by telephone line to their regional headquarters, to which they reported, and to local police stations as part of the Civil Defence program. Readers who may recall the large sirens sited on many police stations are about to learn why they disappeared during the 1990s. Although the public telephone lines and network were used to provide this link, posts did not actually communicate using telephones, having their own equipment and communications system developed to provide this function. Information regarding the system can be found at The United Kingdom Warning and Monitoring Organisation (UKWMO) site, which describes the system's operation and development in some detail. Although connected by, and operating over conventional telephone lines, the earliest systems did not actually allow posts to communicate with one another, only to their regional headquarters. Gradually, this communication system was improved: many overground telegraph poles were replaced by underground cabling since overground links could have been destroyed in an attack, provision was made for communications between posts, and VHF radios were installed. Posts were eventually grouped into clusters of 3 or 4, with one being designated as a Master Post, equipped with VHF radio and elevated antenna masts to allow contact with their regional headquarters to be maintained if their telephone line connection was lost.

By 1965 the RAF had concluded that the probability of a conventional air attack had become unlikely, and ceased to rely on the aerial observations of the ROC. Their primary task then became that of nuclear monitoring, together with meteorological (weather) observations, known as ROCMET. By 1968 the Labour Government decided the nuclear threat had also diminished, or was diminishing, and that civil defence services could be curtailed or abolished. ROC volunteer numbers were cut from 25,000 to 12,500, manning only 876 posts. Inactive posts were closed and the land returned to the owner. The remaining posts continued to maintain a state of readiness and take part in national exercises. However, although crewed by volunteers (previously unlimited), numbers were now restricted to 10 in total, giving only 3 operational shifts per day per post if all were available. This resulted in degraded coverage, particularly for posts in obscure or remote locations. The 1980s saw yet more re-organisation, further degrading the effective coverage and reporting activities of the ROC, and by 1991 the Home Office and MoD decided to cease volunteer training. In September of the same year, the closure of all the remaining underground posts and the stand down the ROC was announced. Finally, on December 31, 1995 the decision was taken to stand down all remaining elements of the Royal Observer Corps, bringing to an end 70 years of voluntary service in the defence of the Realm.

The increasing availability of satellite and high altitude reconnaissance, potentially immune to the effect of ground-based events, no doubt also hastened these changes, together with the developing technology that was to make airborne early warning systems a reality. The last posts were put out to public tender, with a number being acquired by cell phone operators, due to their high ground locations. These posts may be the lucky ones, where not demolished by the operator; they often lie within the secure compound of the operator's equipment and have been welded shut, so are unlikely to be vandalised or damaged in future. The remaining posts have been subject to a number of fates: abandoned, demolished, vandalised, forgotten, filled-in, welded shut, built-on, converted to stores, sold to enthusiasts, and finally just lost. A small number remain unknown, as there is no evidence at the NGR of their published location, or within the surrounding area. Some of the unknown or missing posts may still be found, as a few NGRs have proven to have been reported or recorded in error. Recently, increased interest in the ROC has resulted in approximately one lost post being found each year, having formerly been classified as lost or demolished, so there may yet be a few more out there, waiting to be re-discovered.

Our introduction opened by recalling the motto of the ROC - Forewarned is Forearmed, and closes with that motto as it appears on the insignia of the ROC. An Elizabethan coast-watcher features on the badge of the ROC, holding a flaming torch and surrounded by a laurel wreath surmounted by a royal crown. The coast-watchers would have kept watch for the Spanish armada in 1588. On sighting the fleet, their job would have been to raise the alarm by lighting signal fires.

Kilchattan Bay

According to available records, this post was commissioned in September 1961, and remained active until stand down in September 1991. The post is clearly not in Kilchattan Bay (on the east of the island), and actually overlooks Stravannan Bay (on the west). Its name would have been taken from the nearest Post Office, which is in Kilchattan Bay and would have been used as a dropping point for deliveries to the post, such as maps and documentation. No other operational information is known. Anyone with knowledge of the post, or of the volunteers, or any volunteer still on the island, is invited to contact the writer through the Contact form on the left.

The post is located within The Isle of Bute Golf Club, approximately 450 m south west of the A844 and about 75 m south of the clubhouse. The pictures below show the view from the road (the post is in the central green clump) and from just outside the entrance gate to the course. The telegraph pole at the post can just be seen in the centre, against the hill in the background.

  
Surrounding gorse bushes effectively render this post invisible from the road, or any other ground based location, and it was almost missed during the first search. All posts locations were surveyed and assigned a 6 digit National Grid Reference or NGR. Unlike today, where the simplest Global Positioning System (GPS) can be used to fix a location within a few metres, the original NGRs would have been determined by manual survey methods, and subject to the skill of the operator and the accuracy of the available reference markers. This 6 digit figure should locate the post within about 100 m, but occasionally the error is found to be many times that value. The original value for Kilchattan was NS082561, while a GPS fix located the post at NS0821456125. As this represents a difference of only 30 m, the surveyor who carried out the original fix is to be congratulated. Posts were generally installed in an open area and on a slight mound to provide them with an unobstructed view, making them relatively easy to spot provided the surrounding land and vegetation has not changed too much. An initial walk of the surrounding fields, and as much of the golf course as possible without upsetting the players, showed no evidence. Climbing a nearby hill, invitingly topped by aerial masts, for a better view of the area was similarly unsuccessful. Considering the distance walked over the fields, plus the hill climb, thoughts of the search were put on the back-burner in favour of spending the rest of the day enjoying a break on the island. However, not recognising when to give up sensibly, passing the roadside entrance to Isle of Bute golf club stirred thoughts of the number of posts located on golf courses, so the search was on again. Using the NGR and GPS to fix a bearing, the indicated area of the course was scanned. From this viewpoint, the first telegraph pole at the entrance gate the course was clearly visible, but more importantly, a second pole was now apparent against the horizon, rising out of the gorse. Zooming into this area of bushes suggested the outline of a hatch within, and after a short (400 m) dash, the post location was finally confirmed.

This picture shows a general view of the post, which lies within a fairly standard fenced compound, much of which remains. Working from left to right, the first large item which can be seen is the access shaft and hatch, together with the smaller vent shaft mounted on its right hand side. The top of this vent shaft also carries the base mount for a Ground Zero Indicator (GZI). Next, the last telegraph pole feeding the telephone line to the post can be seen just outside the compound. Moving towards the centre, a large diameter green pipe (with blanking plate on top) can be seen rising from the ground, this was the mounting for the Fixed Survey Meter (FSM) sensor. Adjacent to this, but too small to be visible in the photograph, a smaller blanked pipe rises through the grass. This would have carried a set baffles, and would have fed the Bomb Power Indicator (BPI). Next, the second vent shaft can be seen, and this carries two additional features. On its left, a mounting plate to support a telescopic antenna mast, and on its right, a metal dome which secures and protects the external connections for the antenna when not in use. The telescopic mast extended to a height of 10 m using a pneumatic hand pump, and was stored in the access shaft when not in use. These two items identify Kilchattan Bay as a Master Post, which formed a cluster with Tighnabruaich, Gourock and Skelmorlie. The final item visible to the right is the stile, which provided access over the compound's barbed wire fence.

Examination of the grass about 4 m radially from this vent shows three guying points concreted into the ground, and these would have been used to steady the antenna mast mounted to the vent. One of these guying points can be seen in the foreground of the picture.

Post Details

This picture shows the top of the access shaft and hatch, secured by two Chubb padlocks and a central latch. When the hatch is closed, the padlocks secure the hasps over the hatch staples. When the post is occupied, the hasps can be locked over the shaft staples, securing them in the open position. A further locking bar could be fitted for added security, running down the centre of the hatch from the metal staple at the rear, and padlocked to the metal loop visible just before the hinged cover for the latch. This bar also prevented casual access to the latch mechanism. The latch is gravity operated, and automatically locks when the hatch is closed. Access can be gained from the exterior using a special T shaped key, or from the interior, where the latch can be disengaged by hand. Although the latch is simple, its mechanism requires a combination of rotational and linear movement in the correct sequence to open it from outside (as provided by the T key), it forms an effective barrier to casual access. Nearly all the posts had the additional security of the two padlocks and bar, although there are a few (remote posts) that can be found with no evidence of any of the fittings these items require ever having been fitted.

The picture also show the top of the vent shaft, on which can be seen the circular mounting for the GZI, one of the three main instruments fitted to the post.

The GZI (Ground Zero Indicator) was effectively a large pinhole camera. Four photographic papers were mounted inside, oriented behind pinholes facing north, south, east, west, and these would be exposed through the pinhole to any nuclear events, giving a record of their altitude, bearing and strength. Unlike the other instrumentation, collection of this data would have required the volunteer observers to open the hatch and collect the GZI under potentially 'hot' conditions.

The FSM (Field Strength Monitor) provided a measurement of the nuclear strength of the event, and had two ranges. For high sensitivity readings, the sensor would be raised above the walls of the FSM pipe, where it would have been protected by weatherproof cover. For its low sensitivity range, the sensor was simply lowered into the pipe, where the metal wall would have shielded it from the full force of the radiation emitted from the event.

The BPI (Blast Power Indicator) was a simple pressure measuring device, which provided an indication of the blast pressure wave emanating from the event. To protect the indicating meter in the monitoring room, the exposed end of the pipe was fitted with a set of baffle plates, which would have prevented the full force of the blast being fed directly to the meter.

These details, together with prevailing weather indications were communicated to regional headquarters, where they would have been collated and analysed.

In addition to these primary instruments, further monitoring equipment would have been held in the post for the observer's use.

The Kilchattan Bay post has been locked and probably forgotten since the stand down of 1991. Unless it has flooded (which we now know it has not), it will most likely be in reasonable, if damp, internal condition, much as when the observers left. Unless there was a specific reason to remove items prior to closure, these were left, and the keys handed to the owner of the land the post was sited on. This return could bring unwanted attention from officialdom. One owner I met related their battle with the local council after they became aware that the land and post had been returned, and promptly delivered a revised rates bill, increased by £1000 in view of the recently acquired asset on their land.

Post Interior

Although conventional pictures could not be taken of the interior of this post at the time of the original visit, all were built to the standard pattern shown earlier, with minimal variation. The following pictures are taken from various posts which have been visited, and give a good idea of the layout the observers would have operated in.

While looking at these interior pictures, it's worth remembering they were all taken using flash in a completely dark room. Fortunately, most post interiors are lined with white polystyrene tile insulation in an attempt to retain any available heat. Those that aren't are generally painted white, which means the flash is bounced around the room, giving a more diffuse coverage, similar to light coming from a window. In reality, the observers would have been in darkness for much of the time, having only candles or small 12 V light bulbs (fluorescent in later posts) for illumination. These could only have been used sparingly as the accumulator would have been reserved for radio use, and could only have been recharged using a heavy petrol driven generator, which could not have been run within the post due to the poisonous exhaust fumes. Recall the two vents visible in the surface picture, and the absence of any forced ventilation, which was only ever tried experimentally in a few posts.

The monitoring room viewed from the doorway at the bottom of the access shaft. Observers would have made their measurements at the instrument table on the left, note the candle-holder.

Viewed from the opposite end of the room, the battery box lies on the right of the door, with a timer for the lights on the right. Through the door, the access shaft can be seen together with the hand operated sump pump. Posts often flooded, as can be seen here by the reflection visible in the water at the bottom of the door-frame. Out of sight, on the right of the shaft is the door to the toilet recess.

The toilet recess. Suffice to say this room contained a chemical toilet and some privacy for the observers. This room was also used to provided additional storage space.

Not all surviving posts remain intact, and yield to the attention of vandals once opened.

Others suffer more from the weather in remote or exposed locations; note the original observation post visible behind the access shaft.

Warning

Although this site is not particularly hazardous, this is not always the case, especially those that may be open or have been vandalised. If you have been inspired to explore, ensure you take proper precautions regarding your personal safety, preferably with at least one other person. Do not cause damage to property whilst attempting exploration, and be aware that apparently abandoned sites may still be under military ownership and observation. Leave footprints and take pictures, so others may enjoy. For further information, please refer to the Subterranea Britannica site.

Subsequent to the initial publication of this article, the Scottish Outdoor Access Code came into effect on February 9, 2005 setting out the statutory rights and responsibilities of both countryside users and land managers, and a basic understanding of its content can help avoid problems when exploring.

World War II Remnants

Bute did not escape the effects of the Second World War. Buteshire Natural History Society published a series of Nature Trails, still available from the Isle of Bute Discovery Centre in the restored Winter Gardens, and my copy of No.6 from 1989 (revised 1981) lists a number of areas where remnants from this conflict can be found. Time has taken its toll of these, and the only one that now appears to survive is a series of anti-invasion defence installed on the beach at Scalpsie Bay, pictured below, comprising wooden poles fixed in concrete bases, intended to impair any beach landings.

  
Pillbox remains are also referred to here and at Ettrick Bay, but these seem to have succumbed to the years. Any information relating to these or similar remains on the island would be appreciated.

World War II Involvement

The Isle of Bute played a significant part in the conflict of the Second World War, however the record of that involvement is now in danger of being neglected and forgotten, so we would like to contribute to the preservation of that memory, and offer a small summary of the part played by the island and its population. For a fuller account of any of the items summarised below, we recommend a visit to the Isle of Bute V-Day site, set up in 2005 as part of the island's V-Day celebrations, and the book "Bute's War", published to coincide with the event. Written by Jess Sandeman, who served as Chief Wren on the submarine depot ships HMS Cyclops and HMS Forth during World War II, this reveals the full extent of wartime activity on the island and relates her personal experience of working on the submarine depot ships HMS Cyclops and HMS Forth.

Submarine Flotillas

The most significant operation that took place on the island was the establishment of the headquarters of the Royal Navy's 7th and 12th Submarine Flotillas in the requisitioned Kyles of Bute Hydro Hotel in Port Bannatyne, known as HMS Varbel. Some 95% of British submariners were trained here, and Port Bannatyne was the only British base for the X-Craft or midget submarines. The sheltered water of the surrounding lochs provided secure areas where training and sea exercises could be carried out, and successful missions included the sinking of the Tirpitz. 39 lives were lost in service, while 68 awards were made for active service, including 4 Victoria Crosses. The V-Day celebrations also marked the opening of a memorial garden for theses servicemen, attended by survivors of the time, who are remembered in a memorial record in the nearby St. Ninian's Church.

Salvage of Marine Casualties

The Liverpool & Glasgow Salvage Co. located its facilities in Port Bannatyne, and was served by a number of ocean-going tugs. These brought back numerous casualties and survivors from vessels torpedoed in the Western Approaches.

Marine Repairs

Local boatyards provided repair and construction facilities, supplemented by a floating dock and de-gaussing facility.

Decoy Village

Located at the north end of the island, the Royal Navy built a decoy village which was illuminated at night using generators. Its purpose was to lure enemy bombers away from their intended targets in Greenock and Clydebank.

Local Territorials

Mobilised in September 1939, the Local Territorials left the island in October and were posted to France in January 1940 as 202 Anti-Tank Battery. Remaining in France after Dunkirk, in June 1944, 75% of their number were lost or taken prisoner at St. Valery en Caux.

Commando Training

The island's beaches, and nearby Inchmarnock island, were used for landing craft training in preparation for D-Day. Inchmarnock, which had long been abandoned by its former residents, was also used for artillery practice.

Evacuees

Over 2,000 official child evacuees were sent to the island, together with some 700 volunteer evacuees who stayed with friends or relatives. Further numbers were to arrive from Belgium and Poland.

Kilchattan Bay

A wartime searchlight battery was located at Kilchattan Bay, though it should be noted that this would have been the true Kilchattan Bay area on the south eastern side of the island, rather than the in the vicinity of the ROC post featured in this article. Post naming can occasionally appear inaccurate, but tended to follow the name of the nearest Post Office which would have been used for deliveries.

Observer Corps

With the above activity on and around the island during the war, it was no surprise to learn that the original Observer Corps was also stationed there. Originally located in the area of the old pier in Kilchattan Bay, and designated Kilchattan in December of 1940, the post was moved to the top of Canada Hill and renamed Rothesay in early 1941, which was also when the Observer Corps became the Royal Observer Corps. Following the end of WWII, the post was re-activated in 1953 following the escalation of the Cold War, and re-sited in 1959 to its current location within the Isle of Bute Golf Club, where the underground post was installed in 1961.

How it Began

Discovery of the ROC post structure was almost accidental. The first was found at St. Cyrus, around 1989, when it would still have been active. Although its condition indicated it was in use and being maintained, there was no information available back then (no internet then) and no clues as to its purpose, other than being a handy spot to stop on a morning walk, so it was forgotten. After Scotland's Secret Bunker opened, a visit there revealed what had been found, and showed there were further posts located along the coast. Again, mistakenly, that was thought to be the extent of the tale. Then, while tracking a geocache located near Callander in 1999, both an orlit and underground post were found alongside a single-track road in the middle of nowhere. With the internet now available, a few days investigation revealed that the map seen in the Secret Bunker had not shown the whole story, and far from there being only a few posts scattered along the north east coast, there were actually hundreds located throughout the country. In 2002, many remained unrecorded on the Subterranea Britannica site, having only their original 6 digit NGR published to indicate where they might be found. An interest in GPS and digital mapping, coupled with a growing impatience in the unnecessary complications beginning to surround many geocaches, suggested a new pastime. Tying together the potential to visit some remote parts of Scotland, solve mysteries and learn more about using GPS and electronic mapping in a real application sold the idea. While having no desire to try and visit all the sites, about half have been visited, documented, and photographed, provided they still exist. Sadly, St. Cyrus hasn't survived, and was lost before a return visit could be made to document it. The area is now a tourist car park. Reports indicate the surface features were demolished and the access shaft capped with concrete in 1998. The monitoring room is said to remain underground, having been cleared by the farmer prior to the sealing of the access shaft. The picture below shows the clifftop car park at St. Cyrus. The post remains lie beneath the small grassy hill in the centre of the picture, to the right of the access road.

External Links

ROC related

• The Royal Observer Corps in Scotland, an ambitious project by two Cold War historians to thoroughly document every aspect of the nuclear role of the ROC in Scotland.
• ROC in Scotland Forum, a meeting place where enthusiasts and former observers may get together and exchange information.
• Royal Observer Corps Association, for those who wish to continue the comradeship and esprit de corps they enjoyed whilst serving.
• The Royal Observer Corps: 1925 - 1992, a detailed historic site concentrating on the Scottish perspective of the ROC.
• Subterranea Britannica, dedicated to studying and investigating man-made and man-used underground places.
• Research Study Group, part of Subterranea Britannica, dedicated to recording Cold War sites throughout the UK, also where most of my original pictures live. Thanks to Nick Catford for permission to use their resources.
• The Alford Heritage Centre (Grampian), Mart Road, Alford, contains an ROC Room with artefacts from local posts and the Aberdeen Group HQ.
• The UK Nuclear Attack Warning System, provides details of the communication systems used to connect the various locations discussed in this article.
• Scotland's Secret Bunker (Fife), a complete 2-storey underground Cold War control bunker, containing a reconstruction of an ROC post and a small model.
• Threads. First seen in 1984, this serious BBC production gives a sober warning of what a nuclear war might really be like.

Isle of Bute related

• ButeNet, community website for Rothesay and the Isle of Bute.
• Isle of Bute V-Day site, created in February 2005. Part of the island's V-Day commemorations held in June 2005 in remembrance of its contribution to the Second World War.
• Bute Museum, 7 Stuart Street, Rothesay, Isle of Bute, PA20 0EP, Tel: 01700 505067, email: Ivor@butemuseum.fsnet.co.uk

Others

• The Chain Home radar system, describes the system in detail.
• The Cold War, a BBC site listing notable events of the time.
• UK Resilience, recently introduced site dealing with UK responses to emergencies and crises.
• Civil Defence in the 1980s, tells how Britain lost its Civil Defence organisation.
• The official Geocaching site, provides details of the hobby, and a listing of the island's caches.
• The Scottish Outdoor Access Code, provides details of the rights and responsibilities of countryside users and land managers.